04/20/2024

August 2020

Pattern Overview

This cute and cheery tote bag is named for a friend who loves the beach and is very environmentally friendly. The bag uses almost entirely half double crochet stitches worked in different turns to create the fun texture and give the bag plenty of stretch to accommodate a variety of items and uses. This bag is perfect for taking a towel and a book to the beach or the pool, or for “toting” snacks or groceries.

Construction and Customization Notes

The bag is constructed in 3 phases. First, you make a base/bottom; then you work in the round around the edges of the base and up the sides. Then you add straps and do the finishing touches – the surface slip stitching that adds texture and stability.

You can easily customize the piece to your preferred dimensions by simply making the base panel larger before working up the edges in the round. You can also make each textured section longer to make the bag bigger. You can also easily change the length of the straps or the main bag body.

Supplies Needed

  • 8mm crochet hook – I love Boye crochet hooks, but I also have some Clover hooks, and you really can’t go wrong with either.
  • a few hundred yards of worsted weight yarn. I used Caron One Pound because I like the washability of a full acrylic yarn, but you could use any weight 4 yarn you like.
  • Tapestry needle
  • Scissors

Stitches (*US Terms*)

  • Slip stitch (sl st)
  • Chain stitch (Ch)
  • Single crochet stitch (sc)
  • Half double crochet stitch (hdc)
  • Half double crochet 2 together (hdc2tog) – this is a way to crochet 2 stitches together to decrease the total stitch count
  • Crab stitch/reverse single crochet (crab) – this is a great tutorial for the crab stitch
  • Surface slip stitch (surface sl st) – this is a great tutorial for surface slip stitching

Gauge/Notes

Gauge: using hdc: 12 stitches x 9 rows = 4 inches

Notes:

  • I worked the piece in the round after working the base, but you could work it in panels if you would prefer and then seam them at each side.
  • I used joined rounds, but you could use continuous rounds if you are okay with a slightly uneven edge. DO NOT TURN AT THE END OF EACH ROW UNLESS INSTRUCTED TO DO SO.
  • You can also work the bag in turned rows every other row, and it will give more of a “striped” appearance.

Pattern Instructions 

Base/Bottom:

Foundation: Chain 32. Turn. 

Row 1: 1 hdc in third chain from hook, 1 hdc in each remaining stitch. Turn.(30 stitches)

Row 2: Ch 2, 1 hdc in each stitch. Turn. (30 stitches)

Row 3 – 9: Repeat row 2. (30 stitches)

Begin to work up the sides of the bag – the first round is worked into the edges of the panel and the second round is worked in the back and 3rd loop only to create a nice edge and structure to the bag.

Bag body:

Round 1: Work 1 hdc in each stitch around the edges of the base panel – down the short and long sides of the rectangular base. (81 stitches)

Round 2: Ch 2, working in the back and 3rd loop only, 1 hdc in each stitch around the entire previous row. (81 stitches)

Round 3: Ch 2, work 1 hdc in each stitch around (81 stitches)

Round 4: Ch 2, work 1 hdc in each stitch to the first corner, at the corner, hdc2tog, then 1 hdc in each stitch to the next corner, hdc2tog, then repeat with last 2 corners. (77 stitches)

Round 5 – 6: Ch 2, work 1 hdc in each stitch around. TURN. (77 stitches)

WORK THE NEXT 4 ROUNDS IN THIS DIRECTION.

Round 7 – 10: Ch 2, work 1 hdc in each stitch around. (77 stitches)

Round 11: TURN. Ch 3, skip first stitch, 1 hdc in the next stitch, ch 1 – sk 1, hdc in the next stitch. Ch 1 – sk 1, hdc around. (77 stitches – counting the ch stitches)

Round 12: Ch 2, 1 hdc in the first ch-1 space, ch 1, 1 hdc in the next ch-1 space. Repeat to end of round. (77 stitches)

Round 13 – 23: Repeat round 12 – 1 hdc in each ch-1 space around.

Round 24: TURN. Ch 2, 1 hdc in each stitch and ch-1 space around. (77 stitches)

Round 25: Ch 2, 1 hdc in each stitch around. (77 stitches)

Round 26 – 27: Repeat round 25 – 1 hdc in each stitch. (77 stitches)

Round 28: TURN. Ch 2, 1 hdc in each stitch around. (77 stitches)

Round 29 – 31: Ch 2, 1 hdc in each stitch around. (77 stitches)

Round 32: Ch 1, 1 sc in each stitch around. (77 stitches)

Round 33: Ch 1, 1 crab stitch/reverse sc around. (77 stitches)

Break yarn. Tie off.

Straps:

Fold the bag body flat with the seam on the side, flip it inside out. Count in approximately 10 stitches and join yarn with a sl st to the base of the sc row.

Ch 60 (or however long you would like your straps). Being careful not to twist – attach with sl st to the base of the sc row approximately 10 stitches (or the same number as where you attached it on the other side) in from the other side seam.

Sl st to the next stitch, then turn and 1 hdc in each stitch back down the chain to the beginning. Join with sl st to the base, sl st to next stitch of bag body, 1 hdc in each stitch, back to the other end. Repeat for 2 more rows. Sl st to the base/body.

Break yarn. Tie off.

Repeat on the other side of the bag.

Edging/finishing touches:

While this is technically optional, working the surface slip stitches will give the bag a lot more stability and structure. I think it is definitely worth the time to make the bag feel even sturdier and the straps feel more secure.

Flip bag right side out. At the corner/seam, join yarn with sl st in the sc row just below the crab stitch edge. Work 1 surface sl st in each stitch around (including through the strap bases – holding them to the edge of the bag) join to the first surface sl st, break yarn and tie off.

Base reinforcement: Pick a corner, join yarn with sl st to the corner, then surface sl st down the long row, work back down the rectangular base in long rows until you have worked the entire base in surface sl st. Since the stitches are hdc, you have enough space to essentially work 2 rows of surface sl st in each row of the base. Then after all of the long rows were completed, I worked two rows of surface sl st on top of the long row ends up the short sides of the base to add additional stability and cover the messy look of the long row ends.

Break yarn, tie off.

Weave in all of your ends and you are good to go!

If you enjoy this pattern or have any comments or questions, please feel free to reach out via email, facebook, or instagram, and I will happily help you however I can! Tag me in your finished makes @skeinsandstitchesco or #calliecarryall! 

Feel free to sell finished products from this pattern (giving me credit as the designer), but please link to the blog post version of this pattern rather than copy and pasting if you want to share it on your platforms. Thanks! 

**I do use affiliate links throughout my posts so if you place an order through the links in this post I may receive compensation from the company linked. Thanks for your understanding as these links provide essential support that allows this blog to continue.**

Copyright © 2020 Abby Doan, Skeins and Stitches Co

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *